A Cotswold Recce

I don't think many places in the UK have so much condensed beauty in such a relatively small area as the Cotswolds. It's our very own (English) version of Italy; every village, town and city is infused with a rich history, grounded by the beautiful, honey-coloured stone and rolling landscapes. So how could you not want to sit and sketch it?

As many of you may already know, we, Anne, Joelle and I, are organising a sketching retreat in the Cotswolds in June. We will stay at a farmhouse and make excursions daily to some of the most sketchogenic sites in the Cotswolds.

As part of the planning, I have to go and recce the sites where we will Eat, Paint, Sketch and visit. So, it's a voyage of discovery for me too, as I don't know the area very well, at least not yet.

I'm based in London, so it's roughly two hours to get to the heart of the Cotswolds. I've set out a reasonably tight itinerary, including Cheltenham, Winchcombe, Broadway, Blenheim Palace, Oxford (to meet with our guide) and finally to Binsley to the Perch next to the river Thames.

I had always wanted to visit Manoir au Quat' Saisons, Raymond Blanc's famous restaurant and hotel and was surprised to see a sign for it as I left the motorway. It was an opportunity to take a quick look (I had a very tight schedule) and a rapid sketch.

Manoir au Quat’ Saisons

Some of you may notice that I've misspelt the name (using the correct spelling, quatre); it should be Quat'. I still don't know why they decided to misname it. I love rapid sketching (particularly when you're short on time). You have to focus on making quick marks on paper that add up to an overall impression of what you see. It's also a handy skill to have for taking quick notes. Unfortunately, I took out a very heavy sketchbook and was standing whilst drawing—another good reason to work fast.

Cheltenham.

The first official stop on my itinerary was Cheltenham to see the Caryatids on Montpellier Walk. Arriving at about 08:30, I was desperate for a coffee before I looked at what was available and accessible to sketch, so I headed off down the road searching for a good coffee.

Tucked in just behind Montpellier Walk is Cheltenham Ladies College. This world-famous Girls only college has promoted excellence since its inception in 1853. I love the Principle welcome comments (I know it's good because I wish I'd said it).

A life lived with meaning and purpose will be different for each one of us, and the self-knowledge developed in our formative years can be an invaluable compass in finding our way towards this.

What caught my eye was the back of the building, so another rapid sketch.

Cheltenham Ladies College.

Unfortunately, the weather was freezing cold and very windy, making it difficult to sketch. So, again, a very rough sketch with no "true" lines, but I captured what was necessary for me.

You might ask if a photo doesn't capture more. The answer would be, possibly. When you sketch, the difference is that you are engaged in a relationship with the object you are looking at. It's you and it. I think we've become very lazy (well, most of us anyway) with photography. It's so easy that we often don't take the time to compose. Sketching is more like crawling over the building and seeing how it sits in its context. Not just the shape of the building but also the negative shapes.

If you were to sit ten people in front of a building, or anything for that matter, and ask them to sketch, they would all produce very different drawings or paintings. That's because we engage personally with what we're looking at and apply a measure of skill to translate what we see.

I found my coffee just behind Montpellier Walk and, warmed up and caffeinated; I went to see the Caryatids.

Montpellier Walk, Cheltenham

 The sculptured columns now support Ask Italian. Most importantly, there is a great space to shelter (and have a drink) just opposite. However, I didn't stop there; it wasn't open yet, to sketch (very quickly again) whilst standing.

Gretten – Royal Oak

One of the pubs closest to where we will stay in Middle Stanley is the Royal Oak. In my mind, the pub was in Winchcombe, but I was wrong. It was actually in Gretten. Fabulous views over the rolling hills. This will be an ideal space for a summer evening drink.

I'm running late (as usual, a slightly optimistic schedule)

Broadway – the Lygon Arms

A 20-minute drive brings me to Broadway and the Lygon Arms.

This world-famous hotel, spa and restaurant are where we plan to have a meal. Initially, a coaching inn dating from 1377, this hotel has seen a lot of history. It has developed over time but has retained all of its original charms.

The Lygon Arms, Broadway

 The interior doesn't disappoint. Warm and charming, it is quintessentially English and Cotswolds. Great space for dinner.

Lygon Arms - Interior

Blenheim Palace.

There is no time to stop and sketch; I must get on to Blenheim Palace. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful of England's stately homes, almost overwhelmingly so. So here is where we will stop for tea and sketching.

Many years ago, I came here to do a triathlon. The spectacular central courtyard was the main transition area, and the river Glyme was the swimming area.

Unfortunately, it was closed. A film crew or conference had taken over the whole site. But here's a reminder.

Blenheim Palace, Woodstock

Binsley – The Perch.

Not far in the tiny village of Binsley is the Perch. A pretty, thatched-roof pub close to the river Thames. Lunch at last. No good recce would be complete without tasting the food. The food, whilst simple, lived up to the great reviews. I think this is a setting-off point for a lot of ramblers as there were lots of people in sturdy walking shoes, small rucksacks and dogs. I sat by the open fire and enjoyed Braised Venison, Stornoway Black Pudding & Rosemary Suet Crust Pie, roast heritage carrot, braised red cabbage & apple with a pint of warm ale.

The Perch , Binsley

Oxford – Bodleian Library – Radcliffe Camera – Sheldonian Theatre – Christ Church College

Oxford is so rich in exceptional buildings that it's hard to know where to start. Fortunately, I was meeting with our guide, Felicity. Having explained what we wanted to do, she suggested meeting near the Radcliffe Camera and the surrounding quads (squares to everyone else).

The suggestion is perfect. There are three interconnected quads: the Sheldonian Theatre (Christopher Wren's first commission), the Bodleian Library, and the Radcliffe Camera. But, as I discovered, there are also some hidden gems, like the C.S. Lewis (the Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe) doorway and the possibility to go into parts of the library.

With only a few hours to visit, we will need to maximise our time and get the greatest possible immersion into Oxford. This area has it all.

Radcliffe Camera, Oxford

Sheldonian Theatre, Oxford

Bodleian Quad, Oxford

Apart from the history, apart from the highly sketchable architecture, it is the warmth of the stone's colour that is so attractive. If these buildings were built from Portland stone (the main stone of London), they would not be as calm and conducive to learning excellence. Yet, who wouldn't want to study in this environment?

My time was short, and the sun sets early at that time of the year. When we are here in June, the sun sets at 21:30, and the evening light on the buildings warms even the coldest heart.

I only had time for some very rapid sketches.

Radcliffe Camera

We have a few places left for the Cotswolds Retreat. If you'd like to join us, Click Here, we'd love to host you.

Cotswolds Plein air Sketching Retreat. 20th – 24th June 2022

 

Rough Sketches